Moldy Sheetrock may cause Grave Illness

Identifying and Solving Moisture Problems before You Finish Your Basement

It is critical to fix basement dampness problems before attempting to finish the space. Here are some of the most common causes of basement moisture problems. For each cause, you will find a simple test or list of symptoms, information about the root causes, and some suggested solutions.


Problem 1: Condensation
Symptoms/Tests: Damp walls, dripping pipes, rusty hardware, mildew. To identify condensation, tape a mirror in the dampest spot and wait 24 hours. If its foggy or beaded with water, suspect condensation.
Causes: Excess humidity in the air, usually from an internal source, such as a basement shower, washing machine, or unvented dryer, use of a hair dryer, or from a significant difference between the wall temperature and inside air temperature.
Solution: Install a dehumidifier, improve ventilation, and seal interior walls.


Problem 2: Seepage
Symptoms/Tests: Dampness on a section of a wall or floor, most often on a wall near floor level. As with condensation, tape a mirror to the wall. If moisture condenses behind it, seepage is the culprit.
Causes: Surface water is forcing its way through pores in the foundation or an expansion joint. The source may be poor drainage or a leaky window well.
Solution: Improve exterior drainage. If problem is minor, an interior sealer may work. If not, waterproof the outside of the foundation.


Problem 3: Leaks
Symptoms/Tests: Localized wetness that seems to be oozing or even trickling from a wall or floor. It usually appears during heavy rain. Test by running a hose outside near the leak. Pay particular attention to mortar joints between blocks.
Causes: Cracks that may result from normal settling or improperly poured concrete. If you see a cracklike line running horizontally around your basement wall, it may be that the builders poured part of the wall and allowed it to harden before pouring the rest. Faulty roof drainage or a grade that slopes toward the wall exacerbates the problem.
Solution: Improve exterior drainage. You may be able to plug several holes. For widespread leakage, waterproof the entire foundation and install drain tile.


Problem 4: Subterranean Water
Symptoms/Tests: A thin, barely noticeable film of water on the basement floor is often the first sign. Test by laying down plastic sheeting for two days. Penetrating moisture will dampen the concrete underneath.
Problems: Usually a spring or a high water table forces water up from below under high pressure, turning your basement into a well. This may happen only during rainy periods.
Solution: Install a sump pump. Drainage tile around the perimeter of the foundation may help, but only if it drains to a low spot or a storm sewer.


All these Problems can cause Mold to form and spread on your Sheetrock. Not to mention specifically the repairs you will need to do but, Mold can cause serious Illness in your Family and Pets. Most People dont even know the cause of some of their Illnesses. Look around for signs of Mold in your Abode. If you suspect Mold due to any of these Problems Before, During or After you purchased your Home or Office Building, please contact the Public Health Authorities. They may be able to do tests to find out if you have a Mold Problem.

Replace Kitchen or Bathroom Faucet

Is your old Sink Faucet ugly or does it get in the way when there is a sink full of dishes? Feel Refreshed in Your Kitchen or Bathroom with a new Sink Faucet.

Step One: Choose a Faucet
Select a faucet that requires the same number of openings in the sink that your current faucet has, and the same spacing between those openings.
If it doesnt, you will NOT need to cut into the sheetrock of the wall but may have to drill a hole in the top on the sink counter. This is in case you do not already have a spray hose and or a soap pump and want one on the side.

Note: For easier installation, instead of using the supply hoses that come with the faucet, consider buying flexible stainless steel supply hoses. These are more reliable and lasts years.


Step Two: Disconnect the Supply Hose and Faucets
It is smart to always wear eye protection when working on Home Remodeling Projects.
Under the sink: turn the handles of the two shut-off valves clockwise as far as you can. If there are no shut-off valves, or if you can't turn them, turn off the water where it comes into the house.
Turn on the faucets to drain water from the hoses. Use a pipe wrench to remove the hoses from the copper tailpipes under each faucet.

Use a Basin Wrench to unscrew the nuts under the existing faucets and spout — if the nuts are stuck, use penetrating oil to loosen them. Lift off the faucets and spout, and then use a Putty Knife to scrape off any Plumber’s Putty or Caulk from the top of the sink.


Step Three: Install the New Spout and Faucets
Follow the instructions that came with the faucet. They give specific details for installing the spout and handles. The following are general instructions.
Insert the faucets and spout from above the sink, using plumbers putty or silicone to seal them to the surface if they don't have a sealing gasket.
Under the sink, loosely install the gaskets, washers, nuts and other hardware for the spout and faucets. Align them above the sink and then tighten them securely.


Step Four: Install the Supply Hoses
Clockwise, tightly wrap the threaded fittings at the end of the copper tube under the faucets with Teflon tape — the tape helps form a tight seal.
Use two wrenches to attach the hoses to the faucets (for a two-valve faucet) or connector adapter (for a one-valve faucet): one to hold the copper tube so it doesn't break off the faucet, and another to tighten the nut.
Place a bucket under the sink to catch leaks. Remove the aerator from the end of the spout — if you can't unscrew it by hand, wrap a rag around it and turn it with an adjustable wrench. Open the water shutoffs and turn on the faucets for several minutes to clear out any debris. Reattach the aerator.


Step Five: Remove the Old Drain Assembly
Remove old drain assembly, including the sink stopper, the flange (the collar in the sink's drain opening), the drain body (the pipe just under the drain opening) and its locknut, the lift rod that opens and closes the stopper, and the parts that attach the lift rod to the stopper.
Use the putty knife to scrape old putty and silicone from the drain opening.


Step Six: Install the New Drain Assembly
Place a ring of plumbers putty or silicone sealant around the drain opening and insert the flange from above the sink.
Under the sink, attach the drain body to the flange and then use a pipe wrench to tighten the lock nut to secure the connection. Make sure the flange is tightly seated in the drain hole and remove excess sealant.


Step Seven: Install the Stopper
Drop the lift rod through the hole in the faucet and then, under the sink, attach it to the lift rod strap (the plastic or metal strip with a lot of holes along its length) with the thumb screw or other hardware that comes with the faucet.
Above the sink, insert the stopper into the drain. Under the sink, insert the stopper's control rod horizontally through the hole in the side of the drain body and then into the hole at the base of the stopper.
Thread the end of the control rod through one hole on the spring clip, through one of the holes in the lift rod strap and then through the other hole in the spring clip.
Use the lift rod to open and close the strainer; if it doesn't open fully and close tightly, thread the control rod through a different hole in the lift rod strap.


Step Eight: Make sure Everything Works Properly
After all the other steps have been completed and all the joints are tightened sufficiently, turn on the shut-off valves. On the faucet, turn the cold water on first, slowly, just barely open it and then if the water hose or pipes jump, wait for them to quit jumping and then turn the cold water on full blast. This will help prevent any air bubbles that may in the plumbing system from causing the water to splatter everywhere when you use the water. Repeat steps on the hot water side.


Supplies:
• Adjustable wrench
• Basin wrench
• Bucket
• Faucet set
• Narrow putty knife
• Penetrating oil
• Pipe wrench
• Plumber's putty or silicone sealant
• Plumber’s putty
• Protective eye wear
• Putty knife
• Rag
• Teflon tape
• Wrenches